From the Euphrates to
the Mediterranean, from Zenobia to the Crusaders, there is not an inch
of land in Syria that history and men have left untouched. A veritable
open-air museum, with deserts and oases, blue beaches and valleys dotted
with olive trees, the earth itself in this cradle of humanity is steeped
in an Oriental perfume. A land of biblical tribes, its most beautiful
legends are born there where the sand has turned to stone
Sumerian
in the 5th century BC, Canaanite in the, 3rd century BC, then
Amorite, Aramaean, Hellenic, Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine and Arab,
pagan, then Christian and Muslim, Syria is a place where religions
and civilizations have always converged without ever crowding each
other. For proof, one need only look at Damascus, the oldest capital
in the world still inhabited today. Nested like a jewel in its
ancient walls, the old city unfolds its ancestral charms between
minarets and church steeples.
While
exuberant and business-minded, this city, whose beauty won it the
nickname "Halo of the moon on earth" and "Beauty mark of the world"
delights in linyering over the ritual of tea-drinking. With smiles
all around, friends and foreigners alike are invited to sit back and
join in the tradition.
And where better to start than in the Souk al Hamidiyeh, a must for
every tourist on his or her way to the Omayyed Mosque. Elegant women
with veiled silhouettes rub shoulders with porters in djellabas and
sundry smooth talkers urging you to step into their boutiques for
"the pleasure of the eye" and the dismay of your wallet!
Bearing witness to
elegance past,
columns of the main avenue of Apamea.
Palmyra: harmony in gold
and honey; broken columns trace the memory of one antiquity's
cities.
One
of the most beautiful holy places in all of Islam, the Omayyad Mosque is
also a symbol of religious syncretism. Built in the 7th century, it
encompasses an earlier Aramaean structure, a Roman temple to Jupiter and
a Byzantine church. Dedicated to Allah in 636, this sanctuary is home to
many sumptuous Oriental rugs as well as an impressive reliquary bearing
the head of Saint John the Baptist.
Close by, the 18th-century Azem palace looks like it comes straight out
of a tale in the Thousand and One Nights. The inner courtyards, with
their multi-colored basalts, limestone and marble walls bespeak the
refinements of the Ottoman empire, which ruled the city for more than
four centuries. The arch on Madhat Pasha street marks the boundary of
the former Christian quarter, where all communities have been living
together for centuries in perfect harmony. Wandering haphazardly through
the narrow, winding alleys where craftsmen of every origin, including
Armenian, are carving away on pieces of gold and silver, you might
stumble across the moving little chapel dedicated to Ananias. A
contemporary and disciple of Christ, Ananias had a vision sending him to
Paul, whom a heavenly Light had blinded; when Ananias laid his hands on
him, Paul was cured and began his life as apostle to the Gentiles.
Safita Cham Palace Hotel
On Friday, the Muslim sabbath day, the city center is deserted
as the Damascenes flock to the banks of the Barada, where families
gather to picnic, puff on their hookah pipes or take a snooze while
the children play at being crocodiles in the rough-flowing river.
The smell of smoking kebabs combines with the syrupy music screaming
out of' the transistor radios to lend a most picturesque color to
the whole scene. In Damascus, an evening not to be missed on any
account is dinner at the panoramic, revolving restaurant at the Cham
Palace hotel.
While reveling in the refined atmosphere and sampling the
best Oriental specialties of the capital, one can in a single
glance take in the flickering electrical garlands of Damascus,
the jewel at the desert's gate, the place known as the "lily
among all flowers."
Bosra: the charm of a
dark city. Located in the fertile Nukra plain at the country's southern
limits. Bosra is one of those magical places that was long ago plunged
into the oblivion of history, only to reemerge for the eye's pleasure
thanks to the generosity of several enlightened patrons. An old trading
city dating back more than 2000 years, this Nabataean town was made
capital of the Arabian province when the Romans annexed the region in
the early years of the modern era. Later, it became one of the key
cities of Islam representing tolerance, for it is said that this is
where the young Mohammed met the monk Bouheira, who foretold his
vocation as the Prophet. Among the vestiges of the ancient city, the
most stunning are those of' the Roman theater. Considered as the very
symbol of Bosra, the theater has been admirably preserved thanks to the
construction of the Ayyubid citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th
century. It is among the biggest and most beautiful amphitheaters in the
world, and in its black basalt walls the entire history of the city can
be retraced. The sobriety of its lines and harmony of its proportions
enhance the natural brilliance of the black stone facade ennobled with
touches of' white limestone. As a consummate refinement, during the hot
season the theater used to be covered with a silk canopy, which was
sprayed with perfumed water in order to refresh the fifteen thousand
spectators in the audience. A veritable museum-city, Bosra is still
inhabited today, its population gathered around the vestiges of the old
city, perpetuating the centuries-old tradition of one of the most
captivating sites in the country. The city's only hotel is located near
the theater. Practical and luxurious, a night in the Bosra Cham Palace
provides a welcome relief from fatigue before the next day of touring.
With its little terraces opening on to the swimming pool and the antique
theater, it is the perfect complement to the grandeur of Bosra. Heading
north, one comes to the rich valley of the Orontes. Nicknamed the
Rebel1ious River, its banks have been lined with waterwheels since the
dawn of time, drawing water in buckets to irrigate the orchards and
supply the towns. In the picturesque city of Hama, they like to say that
if the squeaking of the "norias" stopped for a night, the entire town
would suffer from insomnia. The only hotel in the region" the Apamea
Cham Palace, is ideally situated to allow you to explore all the local
splendors while sejourning in the exquisite comfort of an
international-class Oriental palace.
As in all countries of sand, wherever water is to be found, you
can be sure that men have followed. Continuing along the Orontes to
the north, one comes to Qalaat al-Mudiq and the site of Apamea,
sister-city to Palmyra.
This stopover site along the caravan route was founded by one of
Alexander's lieutenants, who named it in homage to his Persian wife,
Apamea.
In the time of the Seleucids, it was second largest city in Syria
after Antioch.
Apamea: with a decor
like 1001 nights.
It was surrounded by a
fortified wa11 8.5 kilometers long and had roughly a million
inhabitants, including 120,000 nobles. From its bygone days of glory, the city has preserved the
smooth and cabled columns lining the interminable "cardo," the
monumental avenue 1,850 meters long and 37,5 meters wide running
across the center of the city, while the ruins of the governor's
house still evoke the visit of Cleopatra and Mark Antony. The site
is full of mosaics, some of which can be, seen at the neighboring
museum. One cannot stroll through Apamea without stumbling across
untold numbers of pilasters, basins and friezes. To walk here is to
walk on whole stratums of civilizations past, perfumed with the
humus of the centuries and the magic of stones spattered in gold and
honey. Here, just as in Palmyra, "the desert wife, "the eye is
irresistibly drawn in search of the invisible silk route, and one
turns to the silent gaze of the statues hoping to discover in the
end the secret of the legendary beauty of queen Zenobia. Sometimes
we tend to forget that places of worship are as much gifts of God as
they are monuments to human achievement. What better reason, then to
make a visit to the basilica of Saint Simeon.
It was here on this mystery-filled hillside, where only the cypress
trees interrupt the solitude of one's thoughts, that the Byzantinc
emperor Zenon had a basilica built in the 5th century in honor of
Simeon Stylites. Nothing but a shred of stone is now left of the
enormous pillar on which the ascetic monk lived for 42 years, and
the deserted sanctuary is inhabited by the wind alone, still echoing
with the singsong of fervent prayer. For centuries, pilgrims from
around the world couldn't resist the pagan gesture of carrying off
with them a tiny fragment of the column as a reminder of this site,
so vibrant with an invisible faith. Pilgrims from Europe and
elsewhere continue to come here to visit the sanctuary and pay
homage to the monk's memory.
Next stop, Aleppo, where the noonday sun beats down on the
cracked walls of the imposing citadel, hunched up on its centuries
old foundations. To find a bit of fresh air, the best place to head
is the souk, like so many caverns of Ali Baba, the souks of Aleppo
extend for more than ten kilometers and are by far the most
fascinating in the entire Middle East. Souks for woo1, gold, Turkish
slippers, Kaffiyehs... A fragrance of cardamom and musk fills the
air, as the senses are dazzled by this farandole of colors,
movements and sounds. The souk can be a pleasure for sight and
touch, or it can be the pleasure of bargaining or just enjoying a
hit of conversation over a Turkish coffee.
The secular magic of the Orient and its bazaars will always
"The Desert Wife".
fascinate us.
Second-largest Syrian city, Aleppo has always rivaled Damascus.
A temple of gastronomy, Aleppo boasts the best restaurant in the
country. Perched on the heights of the Chahba Cham Palace hotel, the
restaurant offers candlelight dining against the backdrop of an
unbeatable view of city and citadel. You can have excellent Russian
caviar and an exceptional shrimp ramekin, ending with a divinely
delicious fresh apricot tart that would melt the resolve of the most
steadfast of dieters. And all of this will cost you less than $20!
Far from the desert, but still close to the sand, the beaches of
Lattakia on the Syrian coast are a family experience. Grandmothers
peek out of their chadors to watch over their grandchildren,
splashing gaily in the warm, blue water, while the women tend to
their shopping and the men play backgammon. This is the Oriental
Riviera., and the same elegance
Lattakia: the Syrian
Riviera.
and savoir faire is to
be found when dining on the terrace of the Côte d'Azur de Cham
hotel, where people are sure to dress for the occasion. Close by,
the setting sun lends its golden glow to the Crusaders' mighty
fortress. Begun in 1170 by Tancred, prince of Antioch, the Crac des
Chevaliers is the most famous medieva1 fortress in the world. The
massive Qalaoun tower stands over 650 meters high and commands a
view of the peaceful Boukeia valley. On a clear day, it is just
possible to make out the first range of mountains in Lebanon. To the
north, one can see the Safita Tower, which served as a beacon to the
Crusaders' ships. The Safita Cham Palace hotel stands at the foot of
this monument, dominating the surrounding valley, the stage setting
for many of the battles fought during the Crusades. Inside this
fortified dream, which the Crusaders ringed with ramparts to ensure
its protection, the shadows of va1iant knights still slip silently
along the gothic arcades as if they had only just deserted the
place. While you are still shivering off this strange sensation, you
can't help but feel reassured by the singular discovery that in this
land of solitude and history, the mortal hourglass is not filled
with the sands of this desert. In Syria, time cannot be measured, it
is neither wasted nor won, it simply glides over the stones like a
smile crossing the face of the Middle East.
P
R A C T I C A L I N F O
Air
France and all the other international airline companies fly regularly
to Damascus from Paris and the major European capitals Syria is also
represented by the largest tour operators, the following are just a few
of the possibilities Rev’Vacances, Clio,
Le Tourisme Français, Kuoni. Les Amis de l'Orient, Découvrir, Ikhar,
Explorateur…
A C C O M M O D A T I O N
The only chain of luxury hotels to cover Syria is the Cham
Palaces chain, directed by its founder and president, Doctor Osmane
Aïdi with his background in engineering,
Dr Aïdi has succeeded in bringing the same spirit and know-how to
his Syrian chain as to the Royal Monceau group in France, which he
also presides. In addition to their 5 star luxury comfort and their
international service, the hotels in the Cham chain have the
advantage of being remarkably well situated, either at the entrance
to the major sites or in the very heart of the largest stopover
towns. The vast, air-conditioned rooms are extremely comfortable and
all have a complete bath, television, telephone and mini-bar with a
profusion of marble, the interior decoration is refined and the
style inspired from the oldest Oriental traditions. All the swimming
pools have a bar to one side offering quick and casual refreshment.
As for the evening, the Cham Palace bars and discothèques only close
after the last of the night-lifers has headed off to Luxury
boutiques for shoppers, plus sauna, hammam, beauty salon and health
club make each hotel a city unto itself. Each establishment has its
own specialty: Damascus is famous for its magnificent lobby filled
with green, its Chinese restaurant (considered one of the best in
the world) and its panoramic, revolving restaurant. Deir Ezzor for its unbeatable view over the Euphrates, its
comfort and its excellent food, Aleppo for its panoramic restaurant,
the best in the country; and Palmyra for its hot springs and its
unsurpassable views of the ruins of "the desert wife ". The most
recent hotels in the chain are Bosra and Apamée Cham Palace in Hama,
especially good for its terrace-restaurant which overlooks the
waterwheels on the Orontes river and for its splendid decoration in
pink marble columns all Cham Palace hotels, the staff speaks fluent
English and French.
S H O P P I N G
Whether you're looking for gold or spices, silk or icons, Syria
has something for you. Furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl,
silver, jewelry, hand-blown glass, rugs, hookahs, damask table
linens and candied fruit (a specialty). For those who love bargain
hunting the Damascus antique dealers in Sakiyyé and Hamra street and
the craftsmen around the Takieh es Sulaymanieh mosque are good
quality. Among the best addresses for quality silk brocades and
damask fabrics in the Khahl Daye Bab Charki house at nº28 Hanania
street. The Aleppo souks must not be missed. If you love embroidered
dresses, you'll find the most beautiful ones at Hashem Moushalah in
the Al Haraj souk in Aleppo. If you are afraid of being cheated,
remember that the major antique dealers also have boutiques in the
big hotels. Although much more expensive than anywhere else, they do
have the advantage of selling reliable and authentic works. But be
warned, in Syria, bargaining is a must., except for gold jewelry,
which has its price labeled.
